Picpoul de Pinet, Ch. De La Mirande 2023

Note from the importer: Picpoul de Pinet is situated in the Languedoc roughly half way between Béziers and Montpellier. Château de la Mirande is located in the commune of Castelnau-de-Guers not far from the Bassin de Thau, a salt-water lagoon dedicated to the cultivation of oysters and mussels. The vineyard spreads through the Mediterranean garrigue with its thousand scents and is in part situated on slopes of red earth covered with pebbles which release the sun’s heat to perfect the maturity of the Picpoul. This is a deliciously understated wine, a touch of savoury brininess, a hint of white flowers, and before you know it, the contents of the bottle have disappeared into history. It is a watery wine in the best sense, thirst quenching and utterly appropriate with linguine of crab with chilli, garlic and parsley (which is what I had to eat last night). The terroir for the Mirande vineyard is a claylimestone mix on south-facing terraces with the vines between 30-100 years old. Green harvesting and organic viticulture are part of the estate’s philosophy. Picpoul (Piquepoul Blanc) itself is an ancient grape variety, which has the sort of green-tinged iodine fruit and crisp acidity one would associate with Muscadet or Gros Plant, but with more vinosity. This version has a spicy aniseed bouquet, green fruits and herbs, is quite resinous with an ample mouthfeel and savoury flavours of iodine, yellow plum and pepper, also a sharp prickle. It is traditionally consumed with the local oysters (huitres de Bouzygues) from the Bassin de Thau. A wake-up call to the jaded palate.